Pophams Pasta Restaurant, an Evening Affair

 

 

North and East London is blessed with simply amazing bakeries. One of the most reputable is Pophams. Ollie Gold, the founder, spent years working in catering departments in various Formula 1 teams, travelling around the world and learning about different cooking cultures in every place he visited. In April 2017, an opportunity arose to take on a derelict chemist in Islington and turn his dream of opening a bakery into a reality. The doors opened in October 2017.

In June 2019, they opened their second site in London Fields. This site is an artisan bakery during the day but, on four evenings a week, it morphs into an appealingly simple Italian restaurant.

First visit 

Despite the restaurant being open since before COVID-19, I only first went to the Pophams pasta restaurant with one of my best friends in October 2023. We were seated at a small table, separated from the rest of the tables, so it felt quite romantic! We started with a little snack, the Croissant Cracker Tartlet – Red Onion – Goat Cheese – Chives. For our starters, we got the Sea Bass Carpaccio – Fennel – Chili – Lime and the Oak Smoked Mackerel – Giardiniera – Seeded Rye Cracker. They were all very scrumptious, savoury bites. 

We ordered three pastas to share between the two of us, which was the perfect amount. We started with the Spoja Lorda – Isle of Wight of Tomatoes – Ricotta Salata – Fine Herbs. This pasta was so incredibly fresh. It felt like a caprese salad in pasta form. 

We also got the Cannelloni – Jersey Royal Potato – Comté – Leek – Spring Onion. This was a more comforting pasta because of the creamy potato, which was a really nice contrast to the light spoja lorda. And finally, our third pasta dish was the Cappellacci dei Briganti – Girolles – Chanterelles – Horseradish. I normally am very vary of mushroom dishes, but I absolutely loved this one. I had never had a pasta with this particular shape (cappellacci dei briganti). It translates to ‘brigands hats’ which refers to the conical hat with an upturned brim worn by the ‘Briganti’ from Brigantaggio, a rebel group active during the unification of Italy over a hundred years. This pasta shape can still be found in Molise in south Italy.

For dessert, we shared the Mille Feuille – Fig Leaf – Mascarpone – Plum. This is such a lovely homage to their pastry expertise. I thought this was the perfect end. 

Second visit

Victor and I went again when Victor’s parents were visiting in June 2024. They love Italian food, and we thought they would really enjoy the modern take on the dishes and also the vibey ambience. We again ordered the Croissant Cracker Tartlet but this time it was with a different type of soft cheese and marmalade.

For our starters, we got the British Asparagus with Lincolnshire Poacher, Parsley, and Lemon. I again ordered the Oak Smoked Mackerel Pate and it was even better the second time around because the pate was much smoother!

We ordered all the pastas. They were all different from my last visit except the Cappellacci del Briganti, but it was with different mushrooms: Morels and Hen of the Woods. It was my second favourite pasta dish of the evening! The pasta shape just works so well with the light mushroom-infused sauce. Most of the pasta dishes that followed had meat, so I only had a few bites of each, but they included:

• Tortelli filled with Lamb Shoulder, Sheep Milk Labneh, Capers, Olive, and Mint
• Cannelloni filled with Red Wine Braised Ox Cheek, and Celeriac, and topped with Pearl Onion
• Capunti with Pea, Parsley, Lemon, and Pancetta Pangrattato

We also had a side of the Courgette alla Trapanese. I really liked the capunti. Another unique pasta shape, it originates from southern Italy.

My favourite pasta dish of the meal was the Lorighittas with Mussels, Fennel, Chilli, and Lemon. Lorighittas originate from Morgongiori a small village in Sardinia. The pasta is traditionally made in the lead-up to All Saints Day. The dish was so warm and comforting and the flavours just worked so well together. 

And of course, I had to order dessert! Victor and I shared the Sticky Ginger Croissant Pudding with Vanilla, Caramel, and Crème Fraîche. It was incredible. It was like a cinnamon bun but flavoured with ginger rather than cinnamon. 

It’s safe to say this is one of my favourite restaurants in London. I love the focus on slightly more unknown pasta shapes with a bit of a modern update. The setting is also simply lovely. What more could you ask for?

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Looking for another great Italian restaurant in London? Try manteca!